Enchanting Barga, Between Curiosities and Hidden Corners

It’s an intimate, almost cocoon-like atmosphere that invites you to slow down and savour every moment. At Hotel Ilaria, immersed in this evocative setting, you can experience Lucca from within and set off each day to discover some of Tuscany’s most charming villages. Lucca is, in fact, the ideal starting point for exploring small gems scattered among hills and valleys — authentic places, full of character and often far from the more crowded tourist routes. Among these, Barga, nestled in the mountains of the Garfagnana, deserves a special mention for its ancient history, striking views and the many curiosities that make it truly unique.

One of the most unexpected surprises awaiting you in Barga is the famous red telephone box positioned right at the entrance to the historic centre. A striking detail in the heart of Tuscany, it tells the story of the deep bond between Barga and Scotland: in the 19th century, many locals emigrated across the Channel in search of work, maintaining strong ties with their hometown over the years.
The phone box, brought directly from Edinburgh after a careful restoration, now serves as a book-crossing point and has become the symbol of this enduring connection. Every summer, the town celebrates its Scottish link with a lively Scottish Festival, animated by traditional music, bagpipes and, of course, classic fish & chips.

As you wander through the historic centre, you’ll notice elegant Renaissance palaces — unusual for a mountain village. Yet there is a precise reason: caught between Pisa and Lucca during the struggles for territorial supremacy, Barga chose to submit to powerful Florence, gaining tax and trade privileges in return. The wealthiest families then built their homes in the Florentine style, decorating them with coats of arms and Medici symbols.
Two notable examples are Palazzo Balduini and the Loggia del Capretz, where the famous Medici “balls” are still clearly visible.

Barga also enchants through its natural wonders. Standing in front of the Cathedral, you’ll see Monte Forato, known for its distinctive rocky arch. Each year, on 30 January, a rare phenomenon takes place: the sun sets twice — the second time when the solar disc passes through the natural opening in the mountain, briefly illuminating the landscape with an unexpected glow.
According to local tradition, even the Cathedral’s entrance may have been aligned to frame this unique spectacle.

The Cathedral of San Cristoforo impresses not only with its sweeping views. Inside, on a side wall, you’ll find enigmatic carvings resembling Greek letters and geometric symbols. Many scholars have attempted to decipher them, but the most widely accepted interpretation is that they form a protective invocation addressed to the Archangel Michael.
A fascinating detail that adds an aura of mystery to the village.

Barga is a place that sparks creativity. This is evident in the numerous art galleries and the strong presence of both local and international artists, such as Scottish painter John Bellamy, who found here the colours and Mediterranean light capable of replacing the grey skies of his homeland.
Music is another defining feature of the town: the Barga Jazz Festival attracts enthusiasts from all over Italy every year. And then there is poetry: the great Giovanni Pascoli, who lived in nearby Castelvecchio, considered Barga his “place of the soul”. His well-known poem L’Ora di Barga was inspired by the sound of the Cathedral’s bells.

Book your stay at Hotel Ilaria and let yourself be embraced by the charm of Barga — just a short journey from here.